Looking back inspires the future

The dress made of ivory satin, black and ivory tulle and hand embellished with glass beads is by the first female couturier Madame Jeanne Paquin. It is one of only very few examples of her designs in the world and is currently on display at The Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle.

However, when the dress was unpacked, the cerise sash and bow were found to be beyond repair. The museum turned for help to Northumbria’s School of Design.

Although the exact width of ribbon could no longer be sourced, fashion marketing tutor Hilary McGloughlin and technician Kenny Macrae worked together, dyeing and re-working the dévoré material to reproduce the exact shade of cerise and width of 20th century ribbon to complete the dress.

Joanna Hashagen, Keeper of Textiles at Bowes Museum, said: “Their skills have just been immense. We would not have been able to exhibit this dress without their talent, it has just been amazing what they have achieved.”

As well as helping to bring the dress back to its glory days, Hilary and fellow lecturer Fiona Raeside used the opportunity to set a stimulating challenge to their second year students. The fashion marketing students were asked to research costume and designers from the 1911 era and develop ideas for today’s fashionable lingerie market.

Hilary said: “The students rose to the challenge and thoroughly enjoyed the experience of working with this exceptionally beautiful dress in the belief that in order to move forward we need the craft from the past.”

After completing the research the students experimented with embellishment and silhouette shapes to produce finished garments which are now on display alongside the dress at The Bowes Museum until 15 January.

Hilary added: “Their lingerie designs – many of which feature embroidery, jewels and beads -  effectively illustrate how inspirational historical pieces are used in a creative way. The link between the dress and the exhibited pieces is obvious.”

The Madam Paquin dress can be seen at The Bowes Museum’s new Fashion and Textile Gallery until 9 April.

For more information on the fashion marketing programme at Northumbria University, visit www.northumbria.ac.uk/sd/academic/scd/study/undergraduate/fm/