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Dr Wessie Ling

Reader in Fashion Studies

Department: Arts

Dr Ling is a cultural historian and visual artist. Her research areas of interest are cultural production in fashion, fashion theories, global fashion history and East Asian fashion.

A trained cultural historian and visual artist, Ling uses academic writing and visual art practice to address her work. The discourse of cultural identities in the production of fashion and cultural property of fashion are common themes in her work; in particular, the construction, expression and creation of an identity when producing fashion, its relation with the transnational locality and the tension within and outside of the fashion system in which it is produced. Fashion as an attitude, an idea or a resource, its pull-push force, the juxtaposition of its use and being used by it are threads in both her written and art- work. Author of Fusionable Cheongsam (2007), she has written widely on the socio-cultural revolution of the Chinese dress through which dissected the material culture in China. Such a geographic focus has led her to develop study in the 20thC Chinese fashion in which inter-East Asian (Chinese, Japanese, Korean) cultural dynamics in the making of fashion is examined in an AHRC awarded project on Writing and Translating Modern Design Histories for the Global World (2012-4). Subsequently followed is an edited volume on Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape (2018, IB Tauris) which studies the making of fashion in China through post-1980s taking into account not only the fast-developing country itself but also its diaspora and cultural interaction with Asia and Europe.In 2018, she is ASEAN Research Fellow at the Research Institute for Languages and Cultures of Asia (RILCA) in Mahidol University (Bangkok) and Rita Bolland Research Fellow for the Textile and Fashion Study in Tropenmuseum (Research Centre for Material Culture, Leiden). In her visual art practice, she uses text and installation to create work that addresses the cultural properties of fashion. Works were exhibited in Saint Dominic's Priory (2016, UK: Newcastle upon Tyne), Oxfordshire Visual Arts Development Agency (OVADA, 2015, UK: Oxford), Danson House (2013, UK: Bexleyheath), Brunei Gallery (2012, London: SOAS), Saltram House (2012, Plymouth: National Trust), Victoria & Albert Museum (2011, London) among others. 

Dr Ling served as the Vice Chair of the Board of Trustees for the Centre for Contemporary Chinese Art (2009-2015, CFCCA, Manchester) and is retained as the artistic committee member of the organization.

At Northumbria, she is the team member of Visual and Material Cultures. She leads CloTHINK, a research group on fashion, textile, visual and material cultures, for which regular semester meetings and a guest speaker programme are held.

 

Qualifications

BA (Hons), MA, PhD

Research Themes and Scholarly Interests

Transnationalism, modernities, postcolonial theories, cultural studies, visual cultures, interface between contemporary art practices and the cultural property of fashion, Chinese fashion, East Asia.

Current/Recent Projects

Rita Bolland Research Fellow for Textile and Fashion Study, Tropenmuseum (Research Centre for Material Culture, Leiden), 2018.

ASEAN Research Fellow, Research Institute for Languages and Cultures of Asia (RILCA), Mahidol University (Bangkok), 2018.

Co-Investigator, Writing and Translating Modern Design Histories in East Asia for the Global World, AHRC award 2012-4.

Key Publications

Key Publications

Forthcoming:

Ling, W. (ed.) Shopping Asia: Fashion Production and Consumption Across National Economies, London: IB Tauris. (In progress)

Ling, W. ‘Textile, Apparel and Fashion Design in Hong Kong Fashion’ in Haruhiko Fujita and Christine Guth (eds). The Encyclopeadia of East Asian Design (EAD), Volume 1, Oxford: Bloomsbury. [Winter 2018]

Ling, W. ‘Textile, Apparel and Fashion Design in Taiwan Fashion’ in Haruhiko Fujita and Christine Guth (eds), The Encyclopeadia of East Asian Design (EAD), Volume 1, Oxford: Bloomsbury. [Winter 2018]

Published:

Ling, W. & Reinach, S. S. (eds.) (2018) Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape, I.B. Tauris. 

Ling, W. (2018) ‘”Beneath the Co-Created Chinese Fashion: Translocal and Transcultural Exchange Between China and Hong Kong’’, in Wessie Ling and Simona Segre Reinach, (eds.), Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape, I.B. Tauris, pp. 124-49.

Ling, W. & Reinach, S. S. (2018) ‘Making Fashion in the Transglobal Landscape’, in Wessie Ling and Simona Segre Reinach, (eds.), Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape, I.B. Tauris, pp. 1-12.

Ling, W. (2018) ‘Bag of Remembrance: A Cultural Biography of Red-White-Blue, from Hong Kong to Louis Vuitton’, in Reggie Blaszczyk and Veronique Pouillard (eds.), European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry, Manchester: Manchester University Press, pp. 283-301.

Ling, W. (2017) ‘Nationalism, Women and their China: What more the Chinese talk about when they talk about the qipao?’ in Janis Jefferies (ed.), TECHSTYLE Series 1.0: Ariadne’s Thread 1.3 Document, Hong Kong: Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textile, pp. 92-101. 978-988-14818-4-9.

Ling, W. (2016) ‘Korea Vs Paris: There is no Fashion, Only Image or How to Make Fashion Identity’, in Roy Menarini (ed.) Cultures, Fashion and Society's Notebook, pp. 1-14. Milan-Turin: Bruno Mondador. 

Ling, W. (2012) ‘Chinese Modernity, Identity and Nationalism: The Qipao in Republican China’, Jacque Lynn Foltyn (ed.), Fashions:  Exploring Fashion through Culture.  Probing the Boundaries at the Interface Series. Oxford: The Inter-Disciplinary Press, pp. 83-94. ISBN: 978-1-84888-015-3.

Ling, W. (2012) ‘“Fashionalisation”: Urban Development and the New-Rise Fashion Weeks’, Jess Berry (ed.), Fashion Capital: Style Economies, Cities and Cultures, Oxford: The Inter-Disciplinary Press, pp. 85-96, ISBN: 978-1-84888-143-3. 

Ling, W. (2011) ‘From Made in Hong Kong to Designed in Hong Kong: Searching for an Identity in Fashion’, Double Issue on Hybrid Hong Kong (ed. K. B. Chan), Visual Anthropology, 24(1), pp. 106-23. Reprinted in: K. B. Chan (ed.), Hybrid Hong Kong, London and New York: Routledge, ISBN: 978-0-415-69554-1.

Ling, W. (2009) ‘Harmony and concealment: How Chinese women fashioned the Qipao in 1930s China’, Beth Tobin and Margaret Goggin (eds.), Material Women: Consuming Desires and Collecting Objects 1770-1950, Ashgate, pp. 209-25, ISBN: 978-0-7546-6539-7.

Ling, W. (2008) 'Vers une nouvelle esthétique diasporique : espaces et modalités du travail des créateurs de mode étrangers à Paris', in Isabelle Pareys (ed.) Paraitre et Apparences en Europe occidentale du Moyen Age a nous jour, Villeneuve d’Ascq: Presses Universitaries du Septentrion, pp. 331-46, ISBN: 978-2-85939-996-2.

Ling, W. (2007) ‘Chinese dress in The World of Suzie Wong: How the Cheongsam becomes Sexy, Exotic, Servile’, Special issue on ‘Fashioning Society’, Journal for the Study of British Cultures, 14(2), pp. 141-51, ISSN: 0944-9094.

Practice-based:

WESSIELING (2016) ‘Holy Chic’, Solo exhibition, Newcastle upon Tyne: Saint Dominic’s Priory.

WESSIELING (2015) ‘Labels of Desire’, ‘WSL’, ‘WESSIELING’ in Wastelands, Oxford: Oxfordshire Visual Arts Development Agency (OVADA). 

WESSIELING (2013) ‘Face the Elements’ (new work produced by Bexleyheath Trust), ‘Fashion Chess’, ‘National Dress’ in Couriers of Taste, Danson House, UK: Bexleyheath Trust’s.

WESSIE LING (2012) ‘National Dress’ (outdoor installation, new commission by Saltram House, National Trust), ‘Fashion Chess’ and ‘National Dress (indoor installation) in Sinopticon, Plymouth Amphitheatre, Saltram House (National Trust), Plymouth City Museum and Art Gallery.

WESSIELING (2012) ‘National Dress’ (outdoor installation, new commission by Saltram House, National Trust), ‘Fashion Chess’ and ‘National Dress (indoor installation) in Sinopticon, Plymouth Amphitheatre, Saltram House (National Trust), Plymouth City Museum and Art Gallery.

WESSIELING (2012) ‘For All Walks of Life’, ‘Maybe She’s Born with It’, ‘The News’, ‘Get Set for Spring’, in The Fabric of Fieldwork, with Professor Susan Ossman, Brunei Gallery, SOAS, London.

WESSIELING (2011) ‘Fashion Chess’ in Fifties, Fashion and Emerging Feminism: A Contemporary Response. Collyer Bristow Gallery, London.

WESSIELING (2011) ‘Fashion Chess’ and ‘National Dress’ in China Through the looking Glass, Commission works, Friday Late, Victoria & Albert Museum.

WESSIELING (2007) ‘Sweatshop’, Commission work, with Lisa Cheung, Group show (curated by Zoe Shearman), Plymouth City Museum and Art Gallery.

WESSIELING (2007) ‘Game On: The World Fashion Conquest’, 

WESSIELING (2007) ‘Fusionable Cheongsam’ (accompanied with publication), Solo exhibition, The Hong Kong Arts Centre.

WESSIELING (2006) ‘Game On: The World Fashion Conquest’, Solo exhibition, Exhibit (London). Exhibition travelled to MAK (Austrian National Museum for Applied Arts / Contemporary Art, Vienna), 2007.

WESSIELING (2005) ‘Mapping Motifs: An exploratory journey through fashion, cities and identities’, Solo Exhibition, AVA Gallery (London).

To view my Northumbria Research Link page click here


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